Textile laboratory manual fibres garner pdf free download

Now put the weights before and after abrasions in a table and find out their wear index. Preparation of Test Apparatus 1. Make all tests in the standard atmosphere for testing.

Remove the specimen holders from the Martindale tester by a. Loosening and lifting off the black knobs on top of the tester. Removing the silver covers held on by the black knobs.

Lifting the specimen holders out 3. Note that all three parts of the specimen holders handle, face, and ring are numbered and correspond to numbers on top of the Martindale tester. Assemble the holder by: a. Placing the cut specimen with the technical face down into the gold ring. The face must sit flush and square inside the ring.

Screw the handle back on. Place the assembled holders into the machine, replacing silver caps and black knobs. Add the required weight 9kpa for apparel, 12kPa for upholstery by resting the weights on the ends of the handles. Set the counter system to record the desired movements using the third black button from the right. Starting the abrasion tester 1. Turn the power on. The machine should already be programmed to run a batch of movements.

Push the green button to start the batch 4. After the first batch is complete take specimen holders off of the machine and observe And record the results and changes in specimens. Put specimens back on the machine and continue with the test. Observe and record the results after each batch of movements until you have Reached the desired number of movements total of Tabulation Sample wt. Remark It is easily understood that the more is no.

That is when a fabric is used more it losses its weight more. Now depending on yarn quality, fabric design and above all end use this loss may be less or more, again may be quickly or lately. But indeed the fabrics will loss its weight and serviceability. Result The abrasion resistance of given fabric is measured as per the fabric prepared according to ASTM D and the specimens were tested as directed in Test Method D Method Crease is a fold in fabric introduced unintentionally at some stages of processing.

Crease or crushing of textile material is a complex effect involving tensile, compressive, flexing and torsional stresses. Crease recovery is a fabric property which indicates the ability of fabric to go back to its original position after creasing. Crease recovery is a measure of creases resistance, specified quantitatively in terms of crease recovery angle. To measure this, the popular instrument is Shirley crease recovery tester. The instrument consists of a circular dial which carries the clamp for holding the specimen.

Directly under the centre of the dial there is a knife edge and an index line for measuring the recovery angle. Crease recovery is determined depending upon this recovery angle. Crease recovery depends on the construction, twist of yarn, pressure, time etc. Usually crease recovery is more in warp way than in weft way. This is because warp yarns are well in quality, strength, treated with sizing, kept in more tension during weaving etc.

Procedure 1. The specimen is cut by template and carefully creased by folding in half. The crease is imparted on fabric by placing it between two glass plates and adding to gm weight on it. After 1 min the weight is removed and the creased fabric is clamped on the instrument. Then it is allowed to recover from the crease. The recovery time may vary to suit particular creases. Usually it is 1 min. When crease recovers the dial of the instrument is rotated to keep the free edge of the specimen inline with the knife edge.

The recovery angle is read from the engraved scale. In this way 10 tests are done in warp way and 10 for weft way. The mean value of recovery angle is taken and thus crease recovery is measured. Tabulation Sl. Here the recovery angle for the given fabric sample is the middle of the range. So it is to say that the crease recovery of the sample fabric is average.

Crease recovery angle in warp way is Method Fabric drape characteristics and behaviour are manifested in the appearance and fit of the garment and are usually assessed subjectively. Nevertheless, considerable research and development has been directed to the routine objective measurement and characterisation of drape and to relate drape, so measured, to objectively measured fabric mechanical properties, notably bending stiffness and shear stiffness.

Developed method of measuring drape by means of the F. It has a parallel light source that causes the shape of the draped fabric to be projected onto a circular paper disc. In practice, the contour of the shadow is often traced onto the paper and cut out for weighing. Converting these polar coordinates into rectangular co- ordinates simplifies the analysis between the shape factor and the drape coefficient.

There are also fabrics which are simultaneously stressed in all directions during service, such as parachute fabrics, filters, sacks and nets, where it may be important to stress them in a realistic manner. A fabric is more likely to fail by bursting in service than it is to break by a straight tensile fracture as this is the type of stress that is present at the elbows and knees of clothing.

Sampling Lot Sample As a lot sample for acceptance testing, take at random the number of rolls of fabric directed in an applicable material specification or other agreement between the purchaser and the supplier.

Consider rolls of fabric to be the primary sampling units. Laboratory Sample As a laboratory sample for acceptance testing, take a full width swatch 1 m 1 yd long from the end of each roll of fabric in the lot sample, after first discarding a minimum of 1 m 1 yd of fabric from the very outside of the roll.

From each roll or piece of circular knit fabric selected from the lot sample, cut a band at least mm 1 ft wide. Test Specimens Cut ten test specimens from each swatch in the laboratory sample with each specimen being. The operating fluid may be a liquid or a gas. Two sizes of specimen are in use, the area of the specimen under stress being either 30mm diameter or mm in diameter.

The specimens with the larger diameter fail at lower pressures approximately one-fifth of the 30mm diameter value. However, there is no direct comparison of the results obtained from the different sizes. The standard requires ten specimens to be tested. The extension of the diaphragm is recorded and another test is carried out without a specimen present.

The pressure to do this is noted and then deducted from the earlier reading. Hand Driven Tester 1. Insert the conditioned specimen under the tripod, drawing the specimen taut across the plate, and clamp specimen in place by bringing the clamping lever as far to the right as possible.

Rotate the hand wheel, clockwise at a uniform speed of rpm until the specimen bursts. Stop turning the hand wheel at the instant of rupture of the specimen. Immediately after rupture and in rapid succession, release the clamping lever over the specimen. Immediately release the strain on the diaphragm by turning the wheel counterclockwise to its starting position and record the pressure required to inflate the diaphragm tare pressure.

Record the total pressure required to rupture the specimen. Motor-Driven Tester 1. Inflate the diaphragm by moving the operating handle to the left. While the diaphragm is inflating, take hold of the latch that is located below, or to the right, of the operating 4.

At the instant of rupture of the specimen, swing the latch as far as it will go to bring the operating handle to an idling neutral position.

Immediately after rupture, and in rapid succession, release the clamping lever over the specimen. Method Crockmeter In order to determine the color fastness of dyed or printed textiles or leather, this test is used for the determination of color fastness against rubbing, either under dry or under wet conditions.

Features of Crockmeter 1. To determine the Color Fastness of Textiles. The equipment consists of a counter. It is provided with a flat peg. It also consists of an operating handle. Tests the color fastness of the textile in a very accurate manner. It gives not only accurate but quick results also. The crockmeter consists of a rigid flat metallic platform on which the test specimen can be held firmly and a abrading finger which rubs against it under a specified load.

The platform is fixed over the base of the equipment and lies in a horizontal plane. The test specimen is held firmly over an abrasive paper which is pasted on the upper face of the platform, with the help of two pins holding it at both ends. The abrading finger has a flat circular rubbing face which is covered with 4 piece of white abradant fabric during the test.

The abradant fabrics picks up color lost by the test specimen during rubbing. It is held over the finger with the help of a tapered ring. Motion to the finger is given through a reciprocating arm with runs an two ball bearings to minimize friction and to apply a uniform load on the finger. The arm is moved by a manually operated crank and connecting lin The equipment is finished in dark metallic paint and bright chrome plating to give it a corrosion resistant finish.

No Sample type Fastness rating Remarks 1 2 3 4 5 Result The rubbing fastness of given fabric is measured as per the test procedures and methods in crock meter.

Method Perspirometer In order to determine the color fastness of dyed or printed fabrics against perspiration, Perspirometer is used. All the components of the Perspirometer are manufactured quality stainless steel and are finished in black stoving enamel paint to give them a corrosion resistant finish. Features of Perspirometer 1. Can also be used for testing color fastness against sea water and water.

Made of stainless steel frame. User friendly and corrosion resistant. Smooth precision engineered components for excellent performance. Solution freshly prepared, containing 0. Place the specimen between the two pieces of white cloth and sew along one side to form a composite sample. This gives the total twist in the yarn. To get the twist level per inch of the yarn, this number is again divided by ten.

Method This method is based on the fact that yarns contract in length as the level of twist is increased. Therefore if the twist is subsequently removed, the yarn will increase in length reaching a maximum when all the twist is removed. The method uses a piece of equipment such as that shown in Fig. At the start of the test the yarn is placed under a suitable tension, either by a clip- onweight or by a weighted arm as shown.

The test procedure is to untwist the yarn until all its twist has been removed and then to continue twisting the yarn in the same direction, until it Prepared by Prof. The basis of the method is the assumption that the amount of twist put in is equal to the twist that has been removed. However, this is not necessarily the case.

One source of error in the method is that at the point of total twist removal the fibres in the yarn are unsupported so that any tension in the yarn may cause the fibres to slip past one another, so increasing the length of the yarn.

The difference in length if unnoticed will cause an error in the measurement of turns per unit length. Another source of error is the fact that with some yarns, when the twist is removed, the amount of twist to bring it back to the same length is not equal to the twist taken out.

Because of these problems the method is not recommended for determining the actual twist of a yarn but only for use as a production control method.

There is a US standard for this method but it warns that the measured values are only an approximation of the true twist. It suggests that 16 samples are tested using a gauge length of or mm. However, the method is easy to use and has less operator variability than the standard method so that it is often used for measuring the twist in single yarns. Specimen preparation: Knitted fabric is made by loop formation. Some of the fabric properties depend on loop length.

The method for measuring loop length of your sample. To measure loop length of a knits fabric sample use following steps- Step 1: Take your sample and cut fabric swatch of 10 cm X 10 cm from the fabric sample. While cutting fabric swatch consider cutting on the wales line.

Count number of wales in the 10 cm of fabric swatch. For example see the right side image, that has 6 wales. Step 2: Take out yarns by pulling the loop. Don't consider yarns those are not full length of swatch. Take five yarns of complete length and stretch yarns to remove curling on yarns. Step 3: Measure yarn length.

Use measuring tape or scale to measure yarn length. Measure all 5 sample yarns. Note yarn lengths in a paper or note book. Calculate average length of the sample yarns. Step 4: Calculate the loop length. Now divide average length of the yarns by no. Suppose you count 'X' no. Calculation: Calculate nominal production of a fleece-knitting machine per hour from the data given: Machine Gauge - 18 Machine Dia - 30 inches Number of Feeders for front yarn - 60 Number of feeders for loop yarn - 30 Machine RPM - 28 Yarn Count - 26s for front Yarn count for loop - 16s Stitch length of front yarn - 4.

This would help us in calculating the total length of yarn consumed in one revolution. Consumption of yarn for front knitting, Every needle is making one stitch on every feeder because machine is producing single jersey fabric front of fleece. Step Two Length of stitch is We can easily calculate weight of this yarn while its count is known see example Every needle is making one stitch on every feeder because machine is producing single jersey fabric front of fleece.

Note: that we have put 30 cones of course count for loops after every two feeders. Step Five Length of stitch is 2. A specimen of the textile to be tested, with the adjacent fabric attached is subjected to washing under specifiend conditions.

Te extent of any change in color and that of the staining of the adjacent fabric are assessed and the rating is expressed in fastness numbers. There are two types of adjacent fabrics; 1 single fibre fabric and multiple fibre fabric.

In the case of multifiber fabric only one specimen is required and in the of single fiber fabric two adjacent faabric are required. There are various colorfastness tests. Details of washing fastness tests are given below. Fastness to Washing: In the test, change in color of the textile and also staining of color on the adjacent fabric are assessed. A 10 x 4 cm swatch of the coloured fabric is taken and is sandwitched between two adjacent fabric and stitched, The sample and the adjacent fabric are washed together.

Five different types of washing are specified as different washing mthods. Fastness to Wash S. The liquor material ratio is After soaping treatment, remove the speciment, rinse twice in cold water and then in running cold water under a tap.

The change in color and staining is evaluated with the help of grey scales. Tabulation Sl. No Sample type Fastness rating Remarks 1 2 3 4 5 Result The durability of given fabric is measured as per the test procedures and methods.

Method Crockmeter In order to determine the color fastness of dyed or printed textiles or leather, this test is used for the determination of color fastness against rubbing, either under dry or under wet conditions. Features of Crockmeter 1. To determine the Color Fastness of Textiles. The equipment consists of a counter. It is provided with a flat peg. It also consists of an operating handle.

Tests the color fastness of the textile in a very accurate manner. It gives not only accurate but quick results also.

The crockmeter consists of a rigid flat metallic platform on which the test specimen can be held firmly and a abrading finger which rubs against it under a specified load. The platform is fixed over the base of the equipment and lies in a horizontal plane. The test specimen is held firmly over an abrasive paper which is pasted on the upper face of the platform, with the help of two pins holding it at both ends. The abrading finger has a flat circular rubbing face which is covered with 4 piece of white abradant fabric during the test.

The abradant fabrics picks up color lost by the test specimen during rubbing. It is held over the finger with the help of a tapered ring. Motion to the finger is given through a reciprocating arm with runs an two ball bearings to minimize friction and to apply a uniform load on the finger.

The arm is moved by a manually operated crank and connecting lin The equipment is finished in dark metallic paint and bright chrome plating to give it a corrosion resistant finish. No Sample type Fastness rating Remarks 1 2 3 4 5 Result The rubbing fastness of given fabric is measured as per the test procedures and methods in crock meter. Method Shrinkage Shrinkage is the process in which a fabric becomes smaller than its original size, usually through the process of laundry.

Cotton fabric suffers from two main disadvantages of shrinking and creasing during subsequent washing.

There are two types of shrinkage occurs during washing; 1 Length wise 2 Width wise Cause Due to high tension during preparation of fabric which result in excess stretch in yarn. This type of shrinkage is known as London shrinkage. Due to swelling of fibers for fiber structure.

Working Procedure The sample which is done shrinkage test, spread on table. Then a glass template put on sample fabric which is square size. There are six mark on glass template and distance between two mark is 35 cm.

Marking the sample fabric by unchangeable marker. Then sample is sewn by hand sewing machine. Sample is ready for washing. Dry the sample as per any of the method.

Get the mean value of wrap-wise and weft wise readings to get the Accurate Shrinkage or Stretch. But it can be change in case of buyer requirement. Result The shrinkage of given fabric is measured as per the test procedures and methods.. Woven Fabric Fabrics composed of two sets of yarns. One set of yarns, the warp, runs along the length of the fabric. The other set of yarns, the fill or weft, is perpendicular to the warp. Woven fabrics are held together by weaving the warp and the fill yarns over and under each other.

To make woven fabrics woven design are done. Weave Plan 2. Drafting Plan 3. Lifting Plan 4. Denting Plan 1. Weave plan is drawn on a graph paper. Drafting plan 3. Lifting plan is drawn at the right side of the weave plan. Lifting plan Prepared by Prof. This is done for keeping uniform spacing between yarns of warp sheets. Usually two yarns are passed through each dent. Cover Factor: Cover factor is a number that indicates the extent to which the area of a fabric is covered by one set of threads.

For any woven fabric, there are two cover factors: a warp cover factor and a weft cover factor. Under the cotton system, the cover factor is the ratio of the number of threads per inch to the square root of the cotton yarn count.

The figure shows projected views of two woven cloths of different construction. At A the warp and the weft threads cover the area of the cloth only partially, but at B the cloth area is covered completely with no spaces left between the adjacent warp yarns, and it will be seen that the relative closeness of yarns in a woven cloth is dependent upon the ratio of yarn diameter, d, to yarn spacing, p. This ratio known as relative cover, can be defined as the proportion of a projected view of a given area of cloth which is covered by threads, and will have a scale from 0 to 1, although it may also be expressed as percentage cover with a scale from 0 to per cent.

Reed Count : It is calculated in stock port system. Maximum EPI for particular count : a. Warp requirement to weave a cloth : Total ends x 1. Reed width in inches x PPI x Reed width in inches Total No.

The simplest of all patterns is the plain weave. Each weft yarn goes alternately over and under one warp yarn. Each warp yarn goes alternately over and under each weft yarn.

Some examples of plain weave fabrics are crepe, taffeta, organdy and muslin. A rib weave produces fabrics in which fewer yarns per square centimeter are visible on the surface. These groups of yarns are woven as one, producing a basket effect.

Method of Construction: Each filling yarn goes alternately under and over the warp yarns Household Uses: Draperies, tablecloths, upholstery. The design is enhanced with colored yarn is strong and may develop a shine. Twill weave is characterized by diagonal ridges formed by the yarns, which are exposed on the surface. These may vary in angle from a Prepared by Prof. Twill weaves are more closely woven, heavier and stronger than weaves of comparable fiber and yarn size.

They can be produced in fancy designs. Method of Construction: Three or more shafts; warp or filling floats over two or more counterpart yarns in progressive steps right or left Household Uses: Upholstery, comforters, pillows. Generally warp yarn is dyed brown or blue and crossed with white weft. Here cotton weft is yarn dyed but the wool warp may be dyed in piece. Satin supposedly originated in Zaytoun, China, which is now Canton. It became popular in Europe in the 12th century, in Italy in the 13th century and in England in the 14th century.

Satin, because of its construction and fiber content, is one of the most luxurious fabrics manufactured. Satin is most often made from low twist, filament yarns. It is usually constructed by floating the warp or lengthwise yarns over four filling or horizontal yarns.

The long floats give the fabric luster. Silk is the premiere choice of fiber content for bridal satin fabrics. However, silk satins are more expensive than satins containing acetate or polyester. Satin is found in apparel, lingerie, draperies, drapery lining fabrics and upholstery fabrics. As a result one side of the fabric has more warp threads whilst the back appears to consist mainly of weft threads, the higher the satin number 7satin, 8satin….

Satin weave allows production of fibres with high mass per unit of surface area and good drapability. Canvas patterns are given below. The warp is much finer and more closely set than the weft, and the latter which only shows on the under side is frequently composed of cotton.

Double faced Satins are made on the reversible warp backed principle, with one side differently colour from the other. It is sold in bleached, mercerized or printed condition.

The front side of the fabric has a satin finish-lustrous and reflective-whereas the back has a dull finish. This is the final weave. End uses: This weaves is particularly suitable for hand towels, glass cloths, dispensed roller towels and bath mats, where moisture absorption properties are particularly desired, but in similar coarse cotton qualities it is also used for quilts and soft furnishings, and in finer qualities for shirts and brocades.

In conjunction with the newer textured yarns, it is produced in very coarse qualities for cellular blankets. End uses: Although the weave is not as popular as the ordinary honeycomb, it is used in similar qualities for more decorative end uses such as quilts and brocades and in some cases, hand towels and glass cloths.

It is also suitable for crockery towels. Pile weaves can have cut or uncut loops, woven either weft-wise or warp-wise, but terry-cloth is always warp-wise. In velour towels pile loops on one side of the fabric are sheared in order to give a smooth cut velvet appearance. Uncut loops of the fabric are sheared in order to give a give the best absorbency, whereas velour gives a luxurious velvety hand.